Stove & Oven Repair Tips

Stove & Oven Repair
Stove & Oven Repair

Is your oven heating unevenly, are one or more burners not working, or does your timer not work on your oven range? For any of these problems, or for any other oven, stove, or range issues, let A1 All City Appliance of San Antonio, Texas work for you. We stand by our commitment to your complete satisfaction.

A1 All City Appliance of San Antonio TX can fix most brands and models of ovens including Kenmore, Whirlpool, Electrolux, Thermadore, Dacor and Maytag. We repair most stove problems including including thermostats, heating elements, or timers. For fast, reliable professional service call A1 All City Appliance.

(210) 202-7223

We service all major brands, such as:

  • Kenmore ovens
  • Whirlpool ovens
  • Maytag stoves
  • Electrolux ovens
  • Thermadore stoves
  • and many more

Services:  All major appliance repair in San Antonio TX including

Servicing the following areas:

San Antonio, Cibolo, Schertz, Universal City, Helotes, Boerne, Leon Valley, Bulverde, Windcrest, New Braunfels, Live Oak, Bexar County and your neighborhood!


WARNING!!!  Before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance, always disconnect your appliance from its power source to avoid personal injury or even death.

If it’s not working.

  1. Check to see if power is getting to the range/oven.  Does anything turn on, even a light?  Check for blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.
  2. Is the power cord burned through; often it gets burned and breaks the connection.

Electric – If your burners are not heating.

  1. Make sure they are sitting straight in their proper positions.

Electric – If your oven is not heating or not heating correctly.

  1. Make sure the clock is set on manual cycle and not the automatic time bake cycle.
  2. Is the bake element is burned out.
  3. Check the heating thermostat bulb is dislodged from its holder. It could also be mis-calibrated.

Gas – If the top burners are not lighting.

  1. Wipe off the burner with a hot, damp rag and then dry completely.
  2. If top burner doesn’t work check for a dirty or clogged burner.  Make sure burner is clean.

Gas – If your oven is not heating.

  1. Make sure the clock is set on the manual and not the automatic cycle.
  2. Raise up the top and keep the area clean and free of grease build-up.

Repairing the Oven Setting Control

When the oven setting control malfunctions, the oven won’t heat or heats unevenly. Most likely this involves a faulty oven setting control, thermostat or times.  Here’s how to repair an oven setting control:

Step 1: Remove the control knob.

Step 2: Remove the back service panel or the front panel, if necessary. Remove other control knobs as needed to remove the panel. The oven setting control is located directly in back of the control knob and is usually held to the control panel by two screws.

Step 3: Testing the control with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) is not recommended, because the results will not always be conclusive. If you suspect that the setting control is faulty, the best procedure is to substitute a control that you know is working, or you could simply replace the faulty control with a new one made for the oven.

Step 4: Disconnect the electrical lead wires from the control terminal and lift out the control. Connect the new control the same way the old one was connected.

Servicing Oven Thermostats

If the oven doesn’t heat evenly or doesn’t heat at all, the oven thermostat may be malfunctioning. First, determine how much the temperature in the oven is off from the control setting. To do this, put an oven thermometer on a center rack inside the oven and turn the oven on for about 20 minutes, with the thermostat set at any range between 300 degrees and 400 degrees Farenheit. If the oven thermometer reads 25 degrees or more lower or higher than the oven control setting, the thermostat should be recalibrated. Here’s how to calibrate the thermostat:

Step 1: Pull off the thermostat knob on the control panel. Behind the knob are two screws holding a round, notched plate. Loosen these screws, but do not remove them.

Step 2: With a screwdriver, change the notch setting on the notched plate by turning the plate counterclockwise; for every eighth of a turn, the oven temperature goes up about 25 degrees Farenheit. To turn the heat down, turn the plate clockwise.

Some thermostats can be adjusted by turning a screw inside the control knob shaft housing. To do so, remove the knob and insert a screwdriver into the shaft so that the screwdriver blade engages a screw slot. Turn the screwdriver counterclockwise about one-eighth of a turn to raise the heat about 25 degrees Farenheit.

Here’s how to test a malfunctioning thermostat:

Step 1: Test the thermostat with a VOM (multimeter) set to the RX1 scale. The thermostat is located directly on the back of the control knob that regulates the heat. To gain access to the thermostat, remove the back service panel to the control panel.

Step 2: Disconnect one electrical lead wire from a terminal of the thermostat and clip one probe of the VOM to each thermostat terminal. If the thermostat is in working order, the meter will register zero. If the needle jumps to a higher reading, the thermostat is faulty and should be replaced.

Step 3: If necessary, replace the thermostat with a new one of the same type.

If you need to replace the thermostat, follow these guidelines:

Step 1: Disconnect the terminal wires to the thermostat and pull off the control knob.

Step 2: Remove the retaining screws. On some ranges, there is a wire running from the thermostat into the oven. This wire operates a sensing bulb that controls the thermostat. The sensing bulb is usually held by a bracket; unscrew this bracket to remove the bulb. Then carefully slip out the wire, the bulb, and the thermostat.

Step 3: Install the new thermostat using a reverse procedure.

Replacing the Timer

The range timer is usually located in the control panel on top of the range. If you suspect the timer is faulty, don’t try to fix it yourself. Remove it and take it to a professional service person for testing. Here’s how to remove the timer:

Step 1: Remove the back service panel to the control panel and release the spring clips that hold it in position, or remove the retaining screws.

Step 2: Push the timer forward to release it.

Step 3: Remove the electrical lead wires from the timer housing. If, when disassembling the timer, you notice that the electrical wire terminals look burned, remove these leads and buff the leads and the terminal points with fine steel wool. Burned and/or dirty terminals can cause the timer to malfunction, but a good cleaning can solve this problem.

Step 4: Replace the old timer or install a new one of the same size and type, if this is necessary. Connect the new timer the same way the old one was connected.

Replacing Range Heating Elements

When a range heating element burns out, it’s easy to replace. But before you disassemble the range to check or replace an element, make sure the range is receiving power. Here’s what you can do:

Step 1: Check the power cord, the plug, and the outlet. Then look for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers at the main entrance panel or at a separate panel.

Step 2: Check the fusing system inside the range. If the circuit is broken, restore it. If the range is receiving power, go on to check the element.

Step 3: When the element is cool, remove it. In most ranges, each top heating element is connected to a terminal block in the side of the element well. To remove the terminal block, lift the element and remove the metal drip pan that rests below it. The element is held by two retaining screws or is push-fit into the terminal block. To remove a screw-type element, remove the screws holding the wires. To remove a push-type element, pull the element straight out of its connection.

Step 4: Test the element with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect one of the electrical leads to the element and clip one probe of the VOM to each element terminal. If the element is functioning properly, the meter will read between 40 and 125 ohms; if the meter reads extremely high, the element is faulty and should be replaced.

To test a range element without using a VOM, remove a working element from its terminal block and connect it to the malfunctioning element terminal. Don’t let the test element overlap the edges of the element well; keep the element inside the well, even if it doesn’t fit perfectly. Turn on the power to the range. If the working element heats, the suspected element is bad and should be replaced. If the working element doesn’t heat, the terminal block wiring or the switch that controls the element may be faulty. Call A1 all city Appliance Repair of San Antonio for honest, reliable and affordable oven repair.

Step 5: Replace a burned-out range element with a new one made specifically for the range. Take the old element to the appliance-parts store; if possible, take the make and model information, too. This data will probably be on a metal tag attached to the back service panel of the range. To install the new element, connect it the same way the old one was connected.

Replacing Oven and Broiler Heating Elements

To remove an oven or broiler heating element, remove the screws or pull the plugs that connect it. Remove a retaining shield and lift out the element.Electric oven and broiler elements are often even easier to test and replace than range elements. Here’s how:

Step 1: If the oven element doesn’t work, first check to see if the range is receiving power. Don’t overlook the fusing system inside the range.

Step 2: If the range is receiving power, set the timer on the range to the MANUAL position.

Step 3: If the element still doesn’t heat, turn off the power to the range and test it with a VOM set to the RX1 scale.

Step 4: Remove the screws or plugs that connect the element to the power. Remove the retaining shield, which is usually held by two screws, and remove the element from the brackets that hold it in the oven. The element is usually held in these brackets by screws.

Step 5: Clip the probes of the VOM to each element terminal. If the element is in working order, the meter will read from 15 to 30 ohms. If the meter reads higher than 30 ohms, the element is faulty and should be replaced. If the element tests all right but doesn’t work, the problem may be at the terminals. Make sure the terminals are clean and tight at the element connections.

Oven and broiler elements cannot be tested without a VOM. If you don’t have a VOM, take the element to a professional service person for testing. The problem is usually a malfunctioning element; however, you aren’t risking much by replacing the element without a professional test.

Step 6: Take the burned out element with you to the appliance-parts store to make sure you get the right replacement part; if possible, take the make and model information, too.

To install the new element, place it in the same position as the old one. Connect it the same way the old one was connected, using the same screws to hold it in place. Just about all the other components of an electric range or oven (including its door gasket, oven controls, and timer) are virtually the same as the components used on gas ranges.


CALL A1 All City Appliance


(210) 202-7223


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